Monday, 21 March 2011

Shhh,

Nobody tell the Chinese police, but I am now semi-gainfully employed, tutoring a very shy/conscientious Communist party member who is chronically afraid she will fail her oral English exam in June. She's rather sweet.

Radiation Scares

News here has been dominated for most of the last week and a half by news of the Japanese earthquake, and following nuclear scare. Apocalyptic music precedes rolling broadcasts of footage from the disaster zone, in microscopic detail, and very thorough analysis of the likely consequences to China and all else.

My host mother has been glued to this ever since it all happened. First with much shaking of the head, and expressions of amazement that only SOME of Japan was in ruins, and sympathy with Japanese people, and then with increasing worry that nuclear disaster was heading our way, fast. In fairness to her, everyone has been scaremongering, from announcements by scientists that we are not to go out if it rains*, to the French students who were commanded home by an impressively paranoid university, and we are signicantly closer to Japan than much of China. It is, however, still a good 1000 miles...

This culminated a few days ago... Despite reassurances that the radiation levels in China have not risen, at all, and perhaps helped by repeated announcements by public authorities that green tea really does not ward off the effects of radiation poisoning anyway, China briefly went salt crazy.

My ayi did too - but she made it to the supermarket just a little late. To her horror the salt was all gone by the time she got there, so she grabbed the food with the highest salt content instead - seaweed.

We all laughed at her when seaweed was served up that night. However, she still made us eat it. Just in case, she said.


* Radiated or no, rain seems even less likely. I can't remember the last time it rained here now - China really is suffering from a drought.

Friday, 11 March 2011

My host sister today received news that she has been offered a full scholarship to study for her PhD in America, at the same university where her boyfriend is studying. Unsuprisingly, everyone is absolutely delighted - we're off to climb a celebratory mountain shortly, and then off out for dinner. My ayi especially is over the moon. She spent the morning clucking ecstatically, has declared me to be a lucky mascot, and started making jokes about her daughter winning a Nobel prize. At the current rate of progress, that could yet happen.



Ayi line of the week: 'Have you ever considered plastic surgery on your nose? Just a little bit off the end, maybe?'

Saturday, 5 March 2011

Return to Dalian and Non-Protests

So, I am back in Dalian, and have been greeted with the twin choruses of 'You've got thinner!' and 'You still speak Chinese!' as I staggered through the doorway, post one final night on a train. It was a good train ride to finish with - decidely the poshest Chinese train I have been on, with specially sanitized toilets, stylish yellow fittings and actual soft bunks. However, it also featured a man so in love with his Applemac he insisted on watching films on it till 3am, and when he had finished stroking it lovingly, he proved also to have a snore so loud the woman in the bunk above him swiftly evacuated herself to the corridor seats. As a result, I did not sleep especially well. My host elder sister has also returned from Taiwan - looks like things could be livelier with her around.

As you may have heard, the main thing that did not happen in China this week was the Jasmine Revolution. The journalists turned up, as did very large numbers of policemen, but no protestors. Thus the journalists all happily took pictures of disproportionate numbers of policemen outside MacDonalds in Beijing, which resulted in a few of them getting arrested. It would have been much better if the police had just stayed away (for China anyway): then all the journalists would have been able to take pictures of would have been a few people going to MacDonalds, which really isn't news. The disproportionate response continues - there seem to be police everywhere at the moment. There are grannies in 'Public Security Volunteer' armbands wandering the streets and gossiping in service of the state, instead of wandering the streets and merely gossiping as they would normally do. According to one friend, students in Beijing universities were all given impromptu talks on 'respecting the law', and doubtless most dissident activists have just been rounded up once again. From my point of view, I am now even having to read news of the cricket via VPN. I do wish they would relax down a little - revolution here does not seem remotely likely. This is not Egypt, and most people here are unaware of any call for revolution, and have better things to do... Besides which, I really do just wish to read the cricket unimpeded. I don't think Ireland-England as reported by the Guardian is particularly subversive.

I did witness one protest this week however. They do happen, with some regularity, but almost always caused by specific grievances as far as I am aware. In this case, a family were demonstrating outside a hospital in Kunming after medicine prescribed for a cold/flu had somehow led to the death of their son (if I read the Chinese banner correctly, I think he fell into a coma and subsequently died). They were all clearly devastated, but were trying to raise money and awareness so that they could take the hospital responsible to court. They had gathered quite a sympathetic crowd by the time I arrived, and were handing out incense to all they could. However, having attracted a crowd, they also drew the attention of the police, who quietly but swiftly began moving people on. I left as one of the protestors started trying to hit a policeman for breaking up the demonstration. I imagine it ended peaceably enough - the police were not being aggressive, but sadly I don't think the family have much chance of success either. A tragic case, for sure.



PS Most of my knowledge of why they were demonstrating was based on translation of their banner - I'm reasonably certain I am right, but not entirely. I certainly have the essentials correct that their son died and they felt the hospital was responsible.