I'm currently in Nanjing, former capital of China, and site of particularly unpleasant 1937 massacre, relaxing before heading onwards to try and find a slice of rural China in Anhui. Post Harbin, Beijing and Shanghai, I'm craving greenery a little, but its been a fine trip thus far.

It began in Harbin, with temperatures of -26, and ice sculptures that could have been designed by Disney on acid, then down to Beijing, which was mostly notable for feeling warm at -6, then down to Shanghai to visit a friend. The trip to Shanghai took a little longer than expected - I miscalculated the distance, and ended up on a 22hr hard seat train. Shanghai I learnt to like in temperatures somewhat lower than the 40 degree steambath I last saw it in, mostly thanks due to the hospitality of a friend and her demented ex-street kitten. The kitten, with her odd colour eyes, incessant friendliness and willingness to chase anything was perhaps one of the most charming, and yet also thickest animals I've encountered in a while - her party trick did appear to be running headfirst into walls.

Basically, its all been good up till now, although perhaps best of all has been the return of hot showers to my life. They had been sorely missed.